Despite all the shit show 2020 played on us, it felt like this year went by faster than I thought. It rather felt much like a blur other than March COVID news flashings, and the November election in the U.S. Mark Manson mentioned in his recent post about life lessons from 2020 that when we slow down, strangely time seems to be speeding up.
At the end of 2020, I wanted to start a new tradition of hiking somewhere to see the New Year’s sunrise, so we came to the Great Sand Dunes in Colorado.
The sand dunes are about two and a half hours from Colorado Springs, but the tricky part is the living situation. In order to be able to see the sunrise, we had to stay the evening somewhere close. We were lucky to find this Airbnb 15 minutes outside of the sand dunes so we can sleep until 6:00 a.m. before driving up to the park. Even though this Airbnb had a bucket as the toilet, and barely a curtain for privacy, we all have survived. It was nice that the Airbnb had a microwave so we packed my favorite. . . (wait for it) SANDWICHES and canned soup for dinner on new year’s eve.
The bed wasn’t the most comfortable ever. I tossed and turned all night on the sofa couch, but we were just glad we had a proper shelter and aren’t either camping out in the 5° F (-15° C) weather or getting up at 4:00 a.m. and drive in from Alamosa.
There is no defined trail so we just aimed for a semi-high peak and started walking. Trudging up the hill seems fun at first, but it gets tiring after a while trying to pull your legs out of the sand with the strong wind whipping the sand against your face. Alas, we finally made it and I am allowed to sit down and have some water.
The sun rose over the mountain range right around 7:30 a.m. and we were all so happy it heats up our bodies a little! Ellie (my friend’s pup) is sitting on the pad probably cursing all of us for dragging her out in the cold this early in the morning.
2020 has taught me many things. For one, this is the first year I really started saving and tracking my expenses after reading Vickie Robin’s book on Your Money or Your Life. I’ve always traveled abroad every year whether for work or personal; and the pandemic has prevented me from doing so this year. Instead, I found myself much calmer settling into a morning healthy routine I like at home, mostly borrowing from Tim Ferriss. I’ve stopped drinking alcohol & coffee completely this year and I am going to keep doing this. I took on a huge project of renovating the barn this year. I thought I could finish it by 2020 but we are nearing the finishing line! I am glad I took my time this time around unlike my first renovation, and I was able to keep the renovation expenses on a budget.
I know I am somewhat privileged to not have been impacted by the pandemic as some of the others this year. Mr. Code Junkie and I were able to save up some money to go to Alaska when the COVID numbers were decreasing in September and had a blast. We are grateful for our friends and family who supported us emotionally throughout this year and they have also been in relatively good health.
May 2021 bring a little more hope and prosperity to everyone’s lives!
Last year I had a marathon frenzy and decided to run the Patagonia Marathon in Puerto Natales, Chile. My friend and I stayed after the marathon and had a three-week hiking trip down the coast of South America.
Getting to Patagonia
If you are like me and live in the U.S., the most economical way to get down to Patagonia is to fly either to the capital city of Chile (Santiago) or Argentina (Buenos Aires) first, then book a separate flight down to Punta Arenas (Chile) or El Calafate (Argentina).
*Pro tip: If you you need to traverse countries while on your trip, it is cheaper to fly domestically and use ground transport (buses) to get the last few hours to your destination. Flying within the same country is cheaper than taking an international flight between Chile and Argentina. For example: If you want to start from Chilean Patagonia and travel to Argentinian Patagonia, the best way is to fly from Santiago to Punta Arenas, then take the bus up through to Argentina.
Getting around in Patagonia
Patagonia operates on buses.You can find a few bus companies that will take you through the borders between Argentina and Chile. You can purchase bus tickets online prior to arrival from Bus Sur (one of the bus companies in Patagonia), but it might be easier to figure out the timetable once you arrive in Patagonia and purchase the bus tickets from the bus station as you see fit. *Pro tip: Go to the bus station a day early and figure out your ride.
September is considered a “shoulder season” (before and after the busy season) of Patagonia. There are plenty of spaces in the campsite but the national park may require a reservation confirmation to let you inside the park. The temperatures in Patagonia around September is about 25F° (-3C°) – 40F° (4C°). I had a thermo jacket
The route we took was: Punta Arenas –> Puerto Natales –> El Calafate –> El Chalten. Because we were trying to save money, we took a bus back to Punta Arenas then flew back to Santiago. If you are short on time, Punta Arenas and El Calafate both have airports.
We had also rented a car and drove between El Calafate and El Chalten. It was a wonderful experience to not have to rely on bus schedules for once during the trip. It was not much more expensive for two people to rent a car than to take the bus. We were a lot more efficient with our time having rented our own car.
Puerto Natales – Torres Del Paine
Chile National Park service (CONAF) now requires local guides for you to enter the park in September due to past season’s increased number of rescues (2019). However, my friend and I did not find out about this requirement until after we had spent 5 days in the park. The CONAF staff asked whether we have a guide at Paine Grande point. When we told him no, he just asked us to write our names down for record keeping. It seems the weather was nice the 5 days we were there. I suppose that is the reason the CONAF staff was not super concerned about us not having a guide.
Most of the information can be found from one of my favorite travel blogs, Yes Mom I’m Alive. I received a lot of help from Britt, author of Yes Mom I’m Alive in the planning stage on maps/camping/weather condition/routes.
Here is an easy map for the ‘W’ and ‘O’ Circuit. Camp Central is Camp Las Torres. Camp Italiano, Cuernos, and Chileno only open during the busy season (October – February).
Camping in Torres Del Paine
The two privately owned companies that operate in the national parks are Fantastico Sur and Vertice. I have linked the specific reservation link I found from researching it for a while. It is not very obvious on Fantastico Sur’s main website where to reserve campsites. Neither of their websites are always up to date. When you see the campsite dates unavailable for consecutive days (especially outside of the busy season of October to January), email them and ask for availability. I have emailed them and found they respond quite quickly. *Note: their website advertises their own tour in addition to the accommodation. It is a bit pricy and not necessary to go with a guided tour. I’d always suggest go by yourself.
Campsites are way cheaper (~$20 a night) but requires time to set up. You can pay a little extra ($~10) to have the park set it up for you prior to arrival (*totally worth it*). After a long day of walking with 25lbs on my back, having a place to sit and lay down is totally worth the extra money. They gave us sleeping bags (20 Fahrenheit) but we doubled up with our own sleeping bag because it is COLD at night.
The refugios have nice buildings with electricity and almost like a big hostel hotel. The bathrooms were modern and some of them can even flush! Coming from primitive camping in the U.S., this was a pleasant surprise.
There are designated areas for cooking but definitely no stove. We brought our jetboil and pre-cooked some sausages to bring on the trip. Alternatively, most of the refugios have food you can purchase, from a simple pizza to elaborate dinners. They all have hot water which was the cherry on top (hot chocolate after a cold day of hiking, yum!).
Sunrise for the tower Cerro – My friend and I woke up at 2:30 am, packed up our sleeping bags and started hiking up the mountain in the dark. It was easier to hike up than down. The trail is frozen towards the last 2 miles and it was basically an ice scramble on our hands and knees going up the mountain (note: if you are going in October, it will probably be a lot easier). I would recommend trying to time your arrival to the mountain around sunrise because if you are early, it is extremely cold on the top while waiting for the sunrise.
El Calafate, Argentina
While we were getting from Puerto Natales to El Chalten, we stopped at El Calafate for a day. This is the place to visit one of the most famous glaciers in the world. Unlike most of the glaciers in the world that are receding due to global warming, Perito Moreno Glacier continues to accumulate mass at a rate similar to that of its loss. It is one of the most magnificent and powerful places I have ever been. We took a tour with Hielo y Aventura where you can wear crampons and get onto the glacier for a whole day. We were told that there is only one official tour company. Other companies who offer glacier walk are agents and will lead to back to this company. Find this company locally once you arrive in El Calafate (this link for google map location).
The trip started at 7am, we took the bus into the national park, paid the park entrance fee, and took a walk to the overlook where the glacier touches the land. Then we rode on the boat across the water to the left side of the glacier. It is about an hour hike to get onto the glacier, punctuated by a lovely beach, safety debriefs, and tasks such as putting on our harnesses, helmet, gloves, and crampons.
We had lunch out on the glacier while huddling in an ice cave carved out by the strong wind on the glacier, observing nature’s biggest glacier making machine in the world. The blue color emanating from the glacier is indescribable. I tried to capture them in my photos but the photo does not do it justice. While we were on the boat back to the city, Hielo y Aventura surprised us with whiskey on the rocks (‘rocks’ from the glacier) and local chocolates to give us some relief from our tired and aching knees and body.
El Chalten, Argentina
Chalten city limits are within the national parks, therefore you don’t need to pay to enter the park (unlike Perito Moreno Glacier). There are many things you can do in El Chalten and it is fully equipped with restaurants and outdoor recreational shops to prepare you for any type of adventure from hiking to alpine climbing.
Unfortunately, only 1/3 of the places are open during the shoulder season of September when we arrived. We hired a local guide and climbed our first multi-pitch right next to the town!
Everything is walkable the moment you arrive El Chalten. It was a town established around 1985. Trailheads start from the town and lead you to Mt. Fitz Roy, the most famous adventure Chalten has so much to offer. It is a convenient basecamp to all types of adventures you can possibly imagine. My second trip to Patagonia will be centered around Chalten.
Other helpful tips
Patagonia is EXTREMELY windy, so it is always necessary to have layers, and possibly scarf to cover your face.
Learn some games that can be played while hiking. 8 hours of walking is only so much fun. A rainy day poker card game is a fantastic way to meet handsome guys on the trail!
All the photos are taken by me or my friend Kat. It seemed daunting when I started planning at first, even with Yes Mom I’m Alive‘s extremely detailed walkthrough and personal help (hats off to Britt!).
I hope this is helpful for you to plan your first trip down to Patagonia. If you have any questions, you can reach me at email@example.com.